There
has been a color change at "Essence." After forty
years of having sisters from the African Diaspora as its
fashion director, the new one is white. And the news is
sending seismic shock waves to many of its subscribers here
in the U.S. and across the globe.
New fashion director Ellana Placas,
however, is no novice to dressing black women or to the
cultural demands of black women's fashion taste. Prior to
her six months at "Essence" as a freelancer, Placas
worked at two popular 'zines -- O: The Oprah Magazine and
US Weekly, both of which are crossover successes.
Placas will make her official
debut with "Essence" this September, commemorating
the magazine's 40th anniversary.
But
in this post-racial era where the rigid reigns of race are
supposed to be loosening up, should there be outrage in
the selection of Ellana Placas as the magazine's new fashion
director?
"Essence," like many
fashion magazines, has a niche audience. And it's a magazine
with an impressive circulation of roughly over 1 million
sister-readers monthly between the ages of 18 and 49. Some
of the ire towards the hiring of Placas is the concern that
she will "whiten" "Essence" up, thus
destroying the inimitable girlfriend-to-girlfriend style,
complexion, and tone of the magazine.
But if truth were told, the elephant
in the fashion department of "Essence" is that
the magazine "already takes its cues from non-African-Americans.
Most of the stores, designers, TV fashion experts, and stylists
that set trends that end up being attributed to African-American
celebrities are not African-American," BlackAmericaWeb.com wrote.
"Case in point: Rihanna, considered by many to be black
music's preeminent fashion trendsetter, is styled by someone
who is not black. Rihanna shares her stylist with the Smiths;
Will, Jaden, Willow, and Jada use her as well."
While the magazine purports to
be for today's black women, not every sister sees a glimpse
of her countenance in its pages. Long before Placas walked
into "Essence's" fashion department, the magazine
had always showcased a Caucasian-like beauty aesthetic of
light-skinned sisters with processed hair on most of its
covers, even during our cultural "black is beautiful"
era.
Lesbian, bisexual, and trans sisters
for the most part are invisible to the magazine. While LBT
sisters have been reading "Essence" since its
inception in May 1970, we got a glimpse of our reality in
the May 1991 Mother's Day issue when Linda Villarosa, then
senior editor at magazine, co-wrote an article with her
mother entitled "Coming Out."
While
Villarosa's "Coming Out" piece signaled to the
magazine that lesbians, bisexual, and transwomen are part
of the "Essence" sisterhood, too, the piece wasn't
a breakthrough moment for more stories, photos, and articles
about us.
Occasionally, however, we have
a token moment. Case in point: This year the magazine for
the first time featured "one" of us as same-sex
couple.
"I am working on a relationship
story for "Essence" magazine. The piece will highlight
several couples and their keys to a successful relationship.
I would like to include a Black lesbian couple in my piece.
Would you or anyone you know be interested in speaking with
me?" freelancer Niema Jordan wrote me in October 2009.
The
shock wave about "Essence" for me is the paucity
of out lesbians, bisexual, and transwomen featured and working
at the 'zine coupled with the fact that the lack of African
American women and men throughout the ranks of the fashion
industry is of serious concern. So, I thought the brouhaha
about the new selection of "Essence's" fashion
designer was that it's editor-in-chief, Angela Burt-Murray,
finally hired a gay male or black lesbian. (And yes, that's
right. Many of us sister-lesbians do have style. Dr. Marjorie
J. Hill, the Chief Executive Officer of Gay Men's Health
Crisis of NYC and my former mayor of Cambridge, E. Denise
Simmons, are just a few of the classic examples.)
After Viacom's acquisition of
Black Entertainment Television (BET), Placas' hiring at
"Essence," no doubt, raises grave concern about
another Black business takeover now from both inside and
out the company. In 2000 Time Warner purchased 49 percent
of Essence Communications Partners, and in 2005, Time Warner
purchased the remaining 51 percent.
In mainstream fashion magazines
white women and gay white men dominate the industry ignoring
the plethora of black talent and creativity.
But let's not confuse a Caucasian-like
beauty and heterosexist aesthetic that has dominated Essence's
fashion department since its inception from white business
conglomerates vying to take it over.
Some are saying with Placas' hiring,
"Essence" is now showing its true color.
BlackCommentator.com Editorial
Board member, the Rev. Irene Monroe, is a religion columnist,
theologian, and public speaker. She is the Coordinator of the African-American Roundtable of the Center for Lesbian and
Gay Studies in Religion and Ministry (CLGS) at the Pacific
School of Religion. A native of Brooklyn, Rev. Monroe is a
graduate from Wellesley College and Union Theological Seminary
at Columbia University, and served as a pastor at an African-American
church before coming to Harvard Divinity School for her
doctorate as a Ford Fellow. She was recently named to MSNBC’s
list of 10 Black Women You Should Know. Reverend Monroe is the author
of Let Your Light Shine Like a Rainbow Always: Meditations on Bible
Prayers for Not’So’Everyday Moments. As an African-American
feminist theologian, she speaks for a sector of society
that is frequently invisible. Her website is irenemonroe.com.
Click here to
contact the Rev. Monroe. |