There
has been a color change at "Essence." After forty years of having
sisters from the African Diaspora as its fashion director, the new one
is white. And the news is sending seismic shock waves to many of its subscribers
here in the U.S. and across the globe.
New fashion director
Ellana Placas, however, is no novice to dressing black women or to the
cultural demands of black women's fashion taste. Prior to her six months
at "Essence" as a freelancer, Placas worked at two popular 'zines
-- O: The Oprah Magazine and US Weekly, both of which are crossover successes.
Placas will make
her official debut with "Essence" this September, commemorating
the magazine's 40th anniversary.
But in this post-racial
era where the rigid reigns of race are supposed to be loosening up, should
there be outrage in the selection of Ellana Placas as the magazine's new
fashion director?
"Essence,"
like many fashion magazines, has a niche audience. And it's a magazine
with an impressive circulation of roughly over 1 million sister-readers
monthly between the ages of 18 and 49. Some of the ire towards the hiring
of Placas is the concern that she will "whiten" "Essence"
up, thus destroying the inimitable girlfriend-to-girlfriend style, complexion,
and tone of the magazine.
But if truth were
told, the elephant in the fashion department of "Essence" is
that the magazine "already takes its cues from non-African-Americans.
Most of the stores, designers, TV fashion experts, and stylists that set
trends that end up being attributed to African-American celebrities are
not African-American," BlackAmericaWeb.com wrote.
"Case in point: Rihanna, considered by many to be black music's preeminent
fashion trendsetter, is styled by someone who is not black. Rihanna shares
her stylist with the Smiths; Will, Jaden, Willow, and Jada use her as
well."
While the magazine
purports to be for today's black women, not every sister sees a glimpse
of her countenance in its pages. Long before Placas walked into "Essence's"
fashion department, the magazine had always showcased a Caucasian-like
beauty aesthetic of light-skinned sisters with processed hair on most
of its covers, even during our cultural "black is beautiful"
era.
Lesbian, bisexual,
and trans sisters for the most part are invisible to the magazine. While
LBT sisters have been reading "Essence" since its inception
in May 1970, we got a glimpse of our reality in the May 1991 Mother's
Day issue when Linda Villarosa, then senior editor at magazine, co-wrote
an article with her mother entitled "Coming Out."
While Villarosa's
"Coming Out" piece signaled to the magazine that lesbians, bisexual,
and transwomen are part of the "Essence" sisterhood, too, the
piece wasn't a breakthrough moment for more stories, photos, and articles
about us.
Occasionally, however,
we have a token moment. Case in point: This year the magazine for the
first time featured "one" of us as same-sex couple.
"I am working
on a relationship story for "Essence" magazine. The piece will
highlight several couples and their keys to a successful relationship.
I would like to include a Black lesbian couple in my piece. Would you
or anyone you know be interested in speaking with me?" freelancer
Niema Jordan wrote me in October 2009.
The shock wave
about "Essence" for me is the paucity of out lesbians, bisexual,
and transwomen featured and working at the 'zine coupled with the fact
that the lack of African American women and men throughout the ranks of
the fashion industry is of serious concern. So, I thought the brouhaha
about the new selection of "Essence's" fashion designer was
that it's editor-in-chief, Angela Burt-Murray, finally hired a gay male
or black lesbian. (And yes, that's right. Many of us sister-lesbians do
have style. Dr. Marjorie J. Hill, the Chief Executive Officer of Gay Men's
Health Crisis of NYC and my former mayor of Cambridge, E. Denise Simmons,
are just a few of the classic examples.)
After Viacom's
acquisition of Black Entertainment Television (BET), Placas' hiring at
"Essence," no doubt, raises grave concern about another Black
business takeover now from both inside and out the company. In 2000 Time
Warner purchased 49 percent of Essence Communications Partners, and in
2005, Time Warner purchased the remaining 51 percent.
In mainstream fashion
magazines white women and gay white men dominate the industry ignoring
the plethora of black talent and creativity.
But let's not confuse
a Caucasian-like beauty and heterosexist aesthetic that has dominated
Essence's fashion department since its inception from white business conglomerates
vying to take it over.
Some are saying
with Placas' hiring, "Essence" is now showing its true color.
BlackCommentator.com Editorial
Board member, the Rev. Irene Monroe, is a religion columnist, theologian,
and public speaker. She is the Coordinator of the African-American Roundtable of the Center for Lesbian and
Gay Studies in Religion and Ministry (CLGS) at the Pacific School of Religion. A native of Brooklyn, Rev. Monroe is a
graduate from Wellesley College and Union Theological Seminary at Columbia
University, and served as a pastor at an African-American church before
coming to Harvard Divinity School for her doctorate as a Ford Fellow.
She was recently named to MSNBC’s list of 10 Black Women You Should Know. Reverend Monroe is the author
of Let Your Light Shine Like a Rainbow Always: Meditations on Bible
Prayers for Not’So’Everyday Moments. As an African-American feminist
theologian, she speaks for a sector of society that is frequently invisible.
Her website is irenemonroe.com.
Click here to contact
the Rev. Monroe.
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