One
of the great, often unspoken, forms of oppression that low-
and moderate-income
communities suffer through is the lack of access to healthy
food. When I moved back to Central Brooklyn in 1985, I was
struck by its barren nutritional landscape. It wasn’t just
that options like fresh produce and organic foods were hard
to come by. But the storefront food provision systems themselves – "bullet-proof" fast
food joints, poorly stocked and over-crowded supermarkets,
cruddy, stomach-curdling bodegas – seemed to represent a level
of self-destruction and dietary corruption that went well beyond
my inability to buy tofu on Nostrand Avenue. While most residents
and activists look at conditions such as public safety, housing
availability, public education, environmental concerns and
economic opportunities when taking on community development
issues, seldom do we consider one of the most basic elements – how
an area feeds itself – as a sign of neighborhood well being.
Recently I stumbled upon a growing movement of activists who
have coined a phrase – "food justice" – that I think
places how and what a community eats squarely in the context
of community building and social change.
Up to now "food
security" has been a more common term used to describe a similar,
if not broader, area of social concern. While government bureaucrats and
international non-governmental organizations alike have been using food security
to call attention to a whole host of agriculture- and hunger-related issues,
activists have also used it to focus on creating community-based ways of
producing food in an affordable, sustainable and environmentally-friendly
manner. Along the way they have sought to create local jobs, promote good
health and stress the importance of small, local farmers.
New Language and Icons
With
the use of the term "food
justice" this activism hasn’t changed so much as it has taken on
fresh new political energy. In an increasing number of grassroots efforts
in New York, local people are re-imagining their collective relationship
to food. According to Bryant Terry, the founder of the youth-based, not-for
profit B-Healthy,
food justice starts from the conviction that access to healthy food is
a human rights issue and that the "lack of access to food in a community
is an indicator of material deprivation." Food justice, Bryant suggests,
goes beyond advocacy and direct service. It calls for organized responses
to food security problems, responses that are locally driven and owned.
For its part, B-Healthy tries to offset the dominance of
processed foods and fast food advertising in the lives
of young people with political education
and a sort of counter-insurgency culinary training. With a curriculum that
includes books like Fast
Food Nation, Diet
for a Small Planet and Food
Fight, B-Healthy offers everything from cooking classes to tips on
how to shop for pesticide-free, non-genetically modified foods.
With a Black founding director and a youth-of-color constituency,
many of whom are immigrants, B-Healthy has implicitly challenged
the popular
image
of health food consciousness as being the strict domain of WASPy vegans
who listen to public radio and shop at the Park Slope Food Co-Op.
And rather
than try to introduce 'culturally inappropriate’ foods into the lives
of families, B-Healthy works with foods and seasonings that are familiar
to
them
Food System Alternatives
Education
is perhaps the first line of offense in the long fight to change eating
patterns and food
distribution in any given neighborhood. But as most food justice advocates
will tell you, this education has to be coupled with action – the creation
of viable alternatives.
Just Food,
which has integrated a social justice mission into its
name, has been the catalyst for the establishment of 30
CSAs – Community Supported
Agriculture – throughout the city, some in areas like Harlem, Bushwick
and East New York. CSAs are arrangements in which people living in
a given area purchase "shares" of organically-grown produce
directly from local sources. CSAs provide urban families with more
healthy eating choices, while also supporting family-run farms. Just
as importantly, CSAs, like other local food systems, eliminate a
neighborhood’s dependence on far-flung corporate growers
and a host of intervening processors, handlers, distributors,
transporters and
other middle people who have made the business of connecting
urban America to food inefficient and environmentally taxing.
Just Food also works with a small number of community gardeners
who are learning to market and distribute their produce in
local settings. In most cases,
local food justice efforts not only provide food, but often help strengthen
neighborhood economies, provide employment and entrepreneurial opportunities
for youth and offer innovative ways to utilize open space.
One text book example of a project that seeks to address
a range of community needs through food activism has recently
taken root
in Red Hook, a mostly
low-income neighborhood with a food terrain that is decidedly
user-hostile. According to Ian Marvy, co-director of Added
Value, Red Hook has only one full-service, sit-down restaurant
and no major grocery store, but is otherwise replete with bodegas,
steam line eateries,
pizza shops and fried chicken shops. On real estate that is
being eyed by hungry developers seeking new water front opportunities,
Added Value
and
a cadre of young people from the surrounding area maintain
a
modest farm with other local farmers and run a market where
young people
sell the farm’s
collective harvest, as well as beef, chicken and fish from
other local farms. Added Value is also making plans to build
a green
house and harvest fish
itself.
Marvy is clear about what distinguishes his work and that of
his colleagues. "Food
security is more about analyzing problems, ameliorating issues
and providing answers... Food Justice... involves local
people from
seed to sale. It educates,
organizes and mobilizes new social relations around food. It
touches hands, hearts and pockets."
Bold New World
Efforts
like B-Healthy, Just Food, Added Value and New York-based CSAs are all
relatively young. And
right now they are all looking to achieve justice through education and
feeding, rather than agitation and confrontation. Ruth Katz, executive
director of Just Food, is intent on rebuilding a demand for healthy foods
and envisions a return to a time in our nation’s history when, in the
midst of food shortages in the 1940s, forty percent of the nation’s food
was supplied locally.
Still, some are hinting at a slightly more aggressive march
towards progress. Terry sees the young people he works
with as one day creating
community organizing
campaigns. He looks to take on the perpetrators of structural,
food-based racism that, he feels, has kept areas like
Red Hook and Central Brooklyn
flooded with toxic foods and empty of choices. Of course,
these days, racism is often easier to feel than prove.
And while the economic development and
food distribution visions of Terry and his peers are
clear, a strategy of what public policies would be targeted
by food-centered, grassroots organizing
campaigns is far less so. Any way you look at it, America’s appetites for
fast food and corporate farming – both defining aspects of American culture – are
not retreating anytime soon.
But then again I still believe that one day I will help start
a black-run food cooperative in Bed-Stuy; and that affordable,
family-style, locally-owned
restaurants will spring up while liquor stores and Burger
Kings die a certain death; and that a loud chorus of
my neighbors will compel my community board,
City Council representative and Brooklyn Chamber of Commerce
to establish a farmers market on local abandoned property.
New social realities always begin here, as somebody’s seemingly far-fetched
dreams. In the meantime, I’m itching for a food fight.
Mark Winston Griffith, a writer whose work has appeared in the New
York Times, Essence and Spin, is also founder of the non-profit Central
Brooklyn Partnership, which organizes people to build economic power.